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Going Dutch

May 2nd, 2008 · No Comments

When Andy van Smeerdijk visits his relatives in Amsterdam, they tell him to get lost.  So he does.

“The Netherlands is an extraordinary nation,” my dad constantly reminded his children when we were young.

A tiny, stubborn nation that refused to give in to the sea; a nation that through innovation and willpower built a city in the middle of a swamp; and a nation that later emerged as a formidable naval power. Naturally, my old man’s biased. He’s a Dutchman - and a stubborn one at that.

Yet when you wander around the streets of Amsterdam, you can’t help but marvel at their ingenuity. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Dutch fleets sailed around the horn of Africa and all the way to Indonesia, tapping into the spice trade and eventually establishing a cracking colonial state.

Today the spoils of this are evident in the handsome gabled buildings that line Amsterdam’s canals. Very impressive - I certainly couldn’t build them; nor could I sail around the Cape for that matter. If the truth be known, I have trouble finding my way around Amsterdam, let alone carving out an empire on the other side of the globe.

“Don’t get lost!” laughs my uncle Henk whenever I venture outside. On my first visit to the city, I got horribly lost while on a stroll. Two hours and many canals later, I returned red-faced, which has been a source of amusement to him ever since.

But over the years, I’ve learnt a few tricks. For instance, it helps if you familiarise yourself with the three main canals that ring the old city: Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht and Herengracht (prince’s, emperor’s and gentleman’s canals). Once you’ve hit one, at least you’ve got a fuzzy idea where you are.

But most of the time, I don’t bother trying to orientate myself. Getting spun-out is part of the fun.

Of course, there are many visitors who come here for a different kind of ’spun-out’ experience. Many revel in the sweet, smoky pleasures of the city’s coffee shops. Whether they see (or remember) much of Amsterdam is another thing altogether.

So where to begin? My advice is to skip the windmill and tulip-themed attractions outside Amsterdam. There’s plenty to do in the city itself and many cool ways to get around its meandering streets, namely walking, taking canal boats and riding bicycles. Getting back to square one is the difficult part.

Visitors are often struck by Amsterdam’s openness: every house’s curtains are drawn back, their windows impeccably clean, giving you a clear view of the living room or kitchen inside. When I first witnessed this, it struck me that my dad isn’t a nosy, overly-inquisitive character; he’s simply Dutch.

Openness is a source of pride for the Dutch. Nearly every visitor goes window shopping through the infamous Red Light District, a curiosity that my relatives treat with a cursory glance and a chuckle. And while the contents of the windows may raise eyebrows, the windows themselves are anything but dirty.

The Nieuwe Zijde (New Side) area is a good area to get lost. Head to the cobbled Dam Square, home of the royal palace and the historical heart of the city. It was here in the 12th century that a dam was built on the Amstel River (hence, Amsterdam). The resultant muddy mound became a marketplace for a fishing settlement, eventually spawning a city.

Not far from the Red Light District, the Waterlooplein flea market offers a fascinating glimpse of cosmopolitan Amsterdam. With vendors of all nationalities, all manner of items are on sale from all over the world: leather jackets from Turkey, African crafts, fake DVDs from Asia and so on.

Pickpockets are as plentiful as the bargains, and haggling is a must. Dating from the 19th century, the market was a magnet for hippies during the 1970s and today still has an alternate vibe.

When you’re at the market, get yourself some smoked herring and onions on a roll, the signature Dutch street food. In fact, while roaming through Amsterdam, look out for an ‘automat’ - a wall of window-fronted compartments brimming with heated snacks, basically a precursor to the vending machine.

Drop in a couple of euros and the munchies emerge. But instead of chips and cola, automats serve more cosmopolitan snacks: bakmie goreng, peanut sate and cheese croquettes.

On the other side of the city, The Jordaan is another cool bohemian area that shouldn’t be missed. Most travellers come here to see the house that Anne Frank lived in during the Second World War.

While the author of The Diary of Anne Frank has a story that resonates with most visitors, I must admit I’m one of a select group of tourists who haven’t been to her house. Apparently, it’s extraordinary.

For me, the Jordaan’s cosy cafes, canals and tightly-wedged houses remind me of the bedtime stories about the war that my dad would tell us. Having lived quite close to Anne Frank, he and his friends (who didn’t attend school during the war) regularly scampered past her house on their daily wanderings, unaware of the girl inside.

Salvaging bullets and other treasures, looking for food and firewood, it was an adventurous time for him, despite the hardships.

Judging from what my relatives say, much of the city hasn’t changed since the 1940s. Devoid of skyscrapers, Amsterdam’s clean and elegant, a delight for those willing to be bamboozled by its winding laneways.

And once you’re truly lost, it’s time to kick back and relax. One popular though touristy area to wet the gills is Rembrandtplein, a square lined by restaurants, cafes and hotels with a small park in its centre. In summer, open-air seats are packed with people enjoying a drink and watching the circus go by.

An even more popular square is the Leidseplein, which attracts hordes of buskers, jugglers and other street performers. After a few brews at one of its pubs, you’ll need more than a compass to find your way back to your hotel.

Lastly, if you’re the type who doesn’t like getting lost, you can rent a CityNavigators handheld GPS map, which will direct you to popular tourist attractions or guide you on walking or bicycle tours.

They cost 16 euros for the first day and 10 euros thereafter and are available at select hotels and online at www.citynavigators.com.

But whatever you do, keep it hidden. Geek.

Do something…
ActiveInstead of a canal cruise, burn off steam by renting a four-seat canal bike and pedal your way around. You’ll look like turkeys, but it’s great fun. The operator, Canal Bike has four berths in Amsterdam. www.canal.nl

Cheap
Buy an Iamsterdam card: this gives you 72 hours of access to public transport, all museums and many tourist attractions. It also entitles you to discounts at some restaurants. Cost: 53 euros. www.iamsterdamcard.com

Arty Farty
See the best and stuff the rest. The Rijksmuseum (www.rijksmuseum.nl) and the Van Gogh Museum (www3.vangoghmuseum.nl) are the standouts. The former has a superb Rembrandt collection and the latter offers a fascinating insight into Van Gogh’s earlier works.

Entry: 10 euros each.

DutchRent a bicycle and see Amsterdam like the locals do. Bikes cost 6 euros a day at MackBike outlets throughout the city. www.macbike.nl

Where to…

Hail a canal boat
Prins Hendrikkade opposite Centraal Station is one spot to take a canal tour, which go for one hour. Alternately, use the Canal Bus, which stops at many attractions and costs 18 euros for 24 hours. www.canal.nl

Park your bicycle
Make sure you’ve got a monster lock (bicycle theft is rife) then park yourself in Eik En Linde, a historic pub at Plantage Middenlaan 22. Aside from fine ales and warm ambience, it has a clock that runs backward, which makes whiling the night away much less disconcerting.

Hang up your clogs

Budget: Hotel Brouwer is a central boutique hotel with a cosy atmosphere. Double: 95 euro, www.hotelbrouwer.nl

Luxury: Housed in a 15th century building in central Amsterdam, Sofitel’s The Grand Amsterdam is perfect for a touch of indulgence with a spa, heated pool and mod cons.  Double: 450 euro, www.thegrand.nl

Meet the locals
Hoppe, at Spui 18-20, is a 17th century pub popular with Dutchies. But don’t come here expecting to pull up a pew; it’s standing room only (on a sand-covered floor).

Pump it up
The quirky Melkweg is an awesome multi-purpose venue that has live music, dance, theatre, cinema and infinite partying possibilities. www.melkweg.nl

Chow down
Rijsttafel (’rice table’) is the penultimate Dutch spread, having its origins in the Indonesian Padang-style banquet. About a dozen sweet and spicy vegetable, meat and fish dishes are laid out upon the table for a communal pig-out.

For good rijsttafel, try Kantjil en de Tjiger, Spuistraat 291-293, Nieuwe Zijde, Call 6200994.

Score points
Located on the Keizersgracht, The Dylan hotel’s restaurant is a way to put points on the board. With killer French cuisine and historic surroundings, reservations are essential. ww.dylanamsterdam.com

Part with your cash
The Speigel Quarter is the area for those who want to fork out in style. Lavish antique shops line the Nieuwe Spiegelstraat for five blocks. As my crusty old Oma would say, “Kijken, kijken nit kopen” (”Look, look, don’t buy”).

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10 of the world’s hottest getaways

May 2nd, 2008 · No Comments

Go on, admit it. When you visit a joint that touts itself as “the hotel where Roger Moore stays”, there’s little chance you’ll hold back from casually dropping this in conversation once you’ve returned from your holiday.

The Kahala, Oahu, Hawaii

And it doesn’t matter whether you’re a fan of Roger or not, there’s just something about celeb hangouts that has far more drawing power than any one of the so-called ‘Wonders of the World’.

A bizarre form of voyeurism, it’s a fascination that’s difficult to shrug off.

Even us Gen-X travellers, who backpacked across the world with Lonely Planet books in tow, aren’t immune from this phenomena.

Indeed, when I visited Udaipur as a tie-dyed hobo, I was overawed by the fact that the town had been the backdrop for the 007 flick Octopussy.

Lost in a popcorn-scented fantasy, I constantly wondered whether I was walking along the same cobblestones that Roger Moore had once paced (with that strange, furball-like hairstyle). In short, the history and majesty of Rajasthan was lost on me because of the Bond bond.

Likewise, when I heard that Heart of Darkness author Joseph Conrad used to often wet his whistle at the Writers Bar at Singapore’s Raffles Hotel, I headed there and moved from barstool to barstool (enjoying a bevy at each stop), hoping to absorb his writing prowess through sheer osmosis. It didn’t work, but I absorbed something - that’s for sure.

More recently, when my wife and I spent our honeymoon at Chobe Game Lodge in Botswana, we were intrigued to learn that this was the site of one of Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s honeymoons.

Of course, whether this was a positive sign or not is debatable. Regardless, the manager kindly offered us the finest suite (though it’s been revamped since the days these Hollywood stars visited) and we… well, we’re still happily married.

Perhaps the ultimate triumph of celebrity over history I’ve come across was in Cambodia. There I met two English lads interested in visiting Angkor, one of the architectural wonders of Asia and undoubtedly the most evocative Hindu-Buddhist temple complex in the world.

When I asked them why they were interested in the site, they told me that they wanted to go to “that place in Tomb Raider.. you know, where Angelina Jolie was.”

That’s when I gave up my pretences. Shove the culture, heritage and natural attractions… have Brad or Angie been there?

So to help those of you who want to combine your holiday with some star-spotting, here’s a list of 10 celebrity travel destinations guaranteed to give you something to
brag about.

Necker Island, British Virgin Islands

According to Forbes Traveller, one of the world’s most exclusive holiday spots is Necker Island in the Carribean - Richard Branson’s private island.

This tropical resort can be rented out (but no, it’s not on Expedia) with A-listers such as Mel Gibson and Oprah Winfrey having enjoyed its Balinese-style bungalows. Rates (for all 14 bedrooms) from $46,000 per night, www.necker.com

 North Island, Seychelles

This eco-friendly island resort (facing page) is where Bono parks his sunglasses. It is touted as a Noah’s Ark, a sanctuary where natural habitats are being rehabilitated and where endangered fauna and flora have been reintroduced. Luxury with a conscience. With 11 rooms, rates start at $2470 per person, www.north-island.com 

[Read more →]

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F1 Race on Istanbul @9-10-11 May

April 29th, 2008 · No Comments

This is that time again. Formula 1 races will be on istanbul park for 5th race of the season.

Timetable:

Fri 09 May 2008
Friday Practice 1 10:00 - 11:30
Friday Practice 2 14:00 - 15:30
Sat 10 May 2008
Saturday Practice 11:00 - 12:00
Qualifying 14:00
Sun 11 May 2008
Race 15:00

Ferrari seems to be unbeatable before this race but rival Mclaren will try to beat them. Don’t miss this challenge.

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Tips for Travelling with Pets

April 29th, 2008 · No Comments

Advance Research
- Vacationing with your pets can be extremely rewarding if you take the time to do some research in advance. If your pets will be staying with you in your room here are some of the questions you should ask when making your reservation:

  • Do you accept pets? Guide books and hotel directories are a great resource, but pet policies change often so you should always verify the current policy.
  • Are there any pet fees or deposits? Are they per pet or per room? Are they daily or one time only? Is the deposit refundable?
  • Am I limited to certain type rooms? I recently stayed in a hotel that would only let us have a smoking room. Many places will also limit you to a street view.
  • Are there any areas that I can’t go with my pet? I once stayed in a hotel that allowed the dog in the room only, we had to walk them in a grassy area in front of a neighboring restaurant.
  • Do you offer anything special for pets? There are places that cater to those traveling with their pets, so it doesn’t hurt to ask. There are 5 star resorts that offer pet sitting, pet walking, welcome gifts and room service items.


Air Sense
- Some useful tips for flying with your pet:

  • Long international flights can be as hard on your dog as they are on you. If you have long layovers (more than two hours) think about checking your pet to that destination and picking it up.
  • Many European airports allow you to walk about with your pet on a leash - so it’s a nice break for the dog to get out and walk and be with you.
  • Take a care kit in your carry on - bottled tap water from your home, baby wipes (good for accidents or when something ‘comes up’ - they are non- toxic and leave a nice smell behind), a small brush for drool mats, and a cookie or treat.
  • Place a shirt or some socks that have been well worn by you (i.e. odiferous) in your pet’s carrier. It’s a big comfort.
  • If you’ll be staying overseas for a while, try to stick to your routine as much as possible. Keep walks on the same schedule. Find food that’s as similar as possible to what your pet eats at home. Most of the pet stores and supermarkets in Germany, where I lived, had the major supermarket and premium brands.
  • Take advantage of the fact that many establishments allow (well-behaved) dogs inside.
  • Most of all, travelling with your pet can be a pleasant experience for you and your pet if you remember to PLAN AHEAD!! Don’t buy your carrier or plane tickets at the last minute. Call the airlines and get SPECIFIC information about requirements AND charges. Not all airlines charge the same amount for the same size dog and costs can be high. Get the proper certifications for both your origination and destination, descriptions of which are available from the USDA/APHIS website. And certainly, gauge your travel plans on your pet’s needs and personality.

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Fun in the Bay of Islands NZ

April 26th, 2008 · No Comments

It’s possible to visit the Bay of Islands in New Zealand any time of year. Long known as the ‘winterless north’, you’ll find a coat is optional no matter which month you head up there.

Featuring dolphin cruises, sailing trips, and general island debauchery, there’s much for everyone of every age. In fact almost everyone who comes up North is looking for Bay of Islands activities, mainly as a result of the famous response : ‘It was fun!’. That’s right, there’s a heap of great activities to do up there, including sailing on some of the saltiest seadogs homes, as they fly around the Bay watch out for the dolphins that are quite at home staring you in the eye before spraying you with water from their blowhole…

The local towns are Paihia, Waitangi, Opua, Kerikeri and Russell. While you’re there you’ll probably want to find some cheap place to stay, in that case you’ll find a choice of hotels, motels, campsites, backpackers hostels, apartments and more.

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Paris - City of Love

April 24th, 2008 · No Comments

Mention the country France and romantic notions instantly pop into the mind. That is why, when visiting Europe many people cannot go past the most romantic city in the world, of course I am referring to PARIS - the city of luuuuuuurve! The capital and gem in France’s tourist crown, Paris offers many tourist attractions and exquisite places that will ensure your trip is truly a memorable occasion. Including monuments, museums, parks and gardens, squares, bridges, the canals of Paris or trade fairs and conferences, whatever your interests, Paris has a lot to offer.

paris love city

FACTS AT A GLANCE:

- Full Country Name: The French Republic
- Population: 58.3 million
- France is made up of 92% French, 3% North African, 2% German, 1% Breton, 2% other (incl. Provencial, Catalan, Basque)
- France is renowned for its epicurean delights - foie gras, truffles, Roquefort cheese and succulent snails!

CLIMATE:

France has predominantly a temperate climate with mild winters, brief sudden downpours in Spring and Autumn and Summer is virtually without rain.

The best time to visit France is in the Spring with the beach resorts beginning to pick up in May. Winter is great for snow sports in the Alps, Pyrenees and other mountain areas.

TRAVEL:

Paris is the country’s main bus and rail hubs, with services to/from every part of Europe. France has a terrific rail network that reaches almost every part of the country. If you would prefer to navigate around France by bus, inter-regional bus services are limited but buses are used extensively for short distance travel within regions.
Having your own vehicle can be expensive and is inconvenient in city centres where parking and traffic are problematic. Renting a car is expensive if you book on the spot but pre-booked and prepaid promotional rates are reasonable.
France is a superb country for motorcycle touring, with winding roads and lots of stunning scenery. Another relaxing way to take in the sights is to cruise its canals and rivers by houseboat. These usually accommodate 4-12 passengers and can be rented for a weekend or several weeks.

Local transport includes the cheap and efficient Metro and Underground networks in Paris, trams, buses, river shuttles taxis, which are very pricey!

ACTIVITIES:

France’s varied geography and climate allows for a wide range of outdoor pursuits.

Hiking, cycling and skiing is also huge in France with popular areas being the Alps, Brittany and the Pyrenees.

The best swimming spots are found along the Atlantic coast, southern Brittany, the Mediterranean as well as lakes including Lake Geneva.

Other activities include rock climbing in the Alps and the Pyrenees, horseriding, surfing, rafting and hang gliding.

FESTIVALS:

The French are a festive bunch with many cities hosting music, dance, theatre, cinema or art events each year. So whatever your taste in culture, there is something for everyone to enjoy.

ATTRACTIONS:

One of the most popular tourist attractions and famous buildings in the world is of course the Eiffel Tower. Built by the engineer Gustav Eiffel in 1889 for the Universal Exhibition, the Eiffel Tower with its three floors, is 317 meters high and carries the capital’s radio and television transmitters. From the Eiffel Tower an outstanding panoramic view of Paris and its surroundings can be seen both day and night.

Another great is the Notre-Dame-de-Paris, built between 1163 and 1330. A masterpiece of French Gothic art, it was restored in the 19th century by Viollet-Le-Duc, and is a testimony to the great moments in the history of France.

Cannes continues to be the favourite among the wealthy folk and is better known as the shop ’til you drop scene. During the International Film Festival, which is held annually, Cannes is crammed with more money, champagne and cleavage than anywhere else in the world!

If you want to have a spot of celebrity gazing, then the famous Boulevard de la Croisette is the place to be.

So if you are planning to embark on a European holiday in the near future, ensure you include France in your travel plans and see what holiday-makers all over the world are raving on about!

- Annemarie Failla

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